L'Etivaz - a taste of tradition

In the case of L'Etivaz, tradition reigns supreme. This Swiss cheese, reminiscent of Gruyère made a century ago, is crafted using methods that have stood the test of time. The milk comes from cows that roam the wildflower-laden pastures of the Vaud Alps, imbuing each wheel with the vibrant essence of the alpine landscape. The cheesemaking season is brief, lasting just four months from early summer until the first snows blanket the mountains in September.

The history of L'Etivaz dates back to the 12th century when cheese was first made in the region. By the late 19th century, local producers established a cooperative to protect the quality and tradition of their cheese. In 1999, L'Etivaz was awarded AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) status, solidifying its reputation as a cheese with a distinct identity tied to its region and methods.

During the cheesemaking season, 68 chalets dotting the mountainside are alive with the activity of dedicated producers. Michel and Jenny, the biggest of these producers by volume, occupy three chalets, beginning their journey at the highest elevations and gradually descending as summer wanes. With their two sons, they commit to a rigorous routine, starting at 4.30am, seven days a week. Using raw cow's milk, they produce five to six cheeses daily, all heated over wood fires in traditional copper cauldrons. These fires not only warm the milk but also envelop the chalets in a smoky aroma, imparting distinctive flavors to the curds.

L'Etivaz is celebrated for its variability in flavors, which can include notes of tropical fruit, sausage, bacon and nutmeg. This diversity arises from the unique grazing conditions, seasonal changes, and the artisanal techniques employed by each producer. After production, the cheeses are matured at the Maison de l'Etivaz, where they develop their full character through careful aging and turning over the succeeding months.

As the season comes to a close and the first snowflakes begin to fall, producers celebrate the Desalpes—a jubilant tradition marking the cows’ descent from their high pastures. Adorned with flowers and bells, the cows lead the way, signaling the end of the summer’s cheesemaking activities.

Today, around 60 producers continue the legacy of L'Etivaz, collectively producing approximately 450 tonnes annually. Protected under AOP status, this cheese ensures that every wheel reflects the rich heritage of Swiss alpine culture, handcrafted in its designated region using age-old techniques passed down through generations. Each bite of L'Etivaz offers a taste of tradition, capturing the spirit of the Alps in every wheel.