Comte Les Fins

One of the producers whose Comte we regularly select is the Fruitière de Vernierfontaine, a cooperative on the first plateaux of the Jura massif that works in a way most Comté producers simply don’t.

Twenty farms supply 6.5 million litres of milk across nearly 2,200 hectares, an exceptionally extensive system for the Doubs. While many dairies on the plateaux push for high yields, Vernierfontaine’s farms average just 3,000 litres of milk per hectare. Producing less is the point: it allows farmers to stay almost entirely forage-autonomous, relying on bulk hay, nutrient-rich barn-dried regrowth and home-grown cereals rather than purchased feed. Fewer inputs, slower systems, cleaner milk. It’s a deliberate model that creates far more depth and stability in the vat.

The terroir behind that milk is just as distinctive. The cooperative draws from three plateau zones between 550 and almost 800 metres, shaped by karst hollows, dry valleys and the dramatic retreat of the Loue. But what makes Vernierfontaine truly stand out is its hedgerow network. In a region dominated by openfield agriculture, they’ve maintained, (and expanded) dense, irregular hedges that follow centuries-old parcel boundaries. Some rise from stones cleared off thin limestone soils; others grow as layered lines of oak, ash and shrubs on deeper marls. These hedges buffer wind, retain moisture and support a richer forage mix than most Comté basins, including plants like hedge vetch that add sweetness, aromatic lift and protein. It’s a landscape designed by farmers as much as by geology, and the milk carries its imprint.

Inside the dairy, the same steady philosophy applies. Vernierfontaine upgraded to modern premises outside the village for better access, and instead of chasing volume, it focuses on precise, incremental improvements: an extra vat, improved workflow, expanded pre-maturation space. It’s not flashy, but it’s consistently effective, and it keeps the fruitière technically sharp without losing its artisan pace.

The April 2024 Comté we are selling this week reflects all of this. It has the cooperative’s signature roasted profile (grilled onion, gratin, toasted cereals) with clean nut notes of hazelnut and roasted almond. A warm thread of honey and browned butter gives depth, while subtle citrus and a fresh vegetal lift bring brightness. Underneath sits just enough vanilla and gentle animal complexity to keep it interesting. The paste is smooth, fine-grained and melting yet structured. It’s an expressive, reliable, high-character Comté, shaped by a farming system that chooses quality over quantity at every stage.