January 15, 2021 2 min read
A decade ago, after years of experience maturing the cheese of others, Hervé (Mr Mons) set up his own dairy. The Laiterie de la Cote Roannaise initially produced a range of set yoghurts but with a local goats farm - the Gaec de Becajat - merely 5km away, Hervé decided to use their milk in some fresh cheese recipes too. It wasn't long before the worlds of production & affinage collided & one of the happy results of this meeting was Barriquet.
Most goats cheeses are made with a lactic set. This means that only small quantities of rennet are used, and the time taken for the curd to set can be up to 24 hours. This is such a popular method, because it produces a greater weight of cheese per litre of milk. Consequently, most expectations of goats’ cheese are the feathery textured and brightly acidic cheeses you most commonly find. However, it's not the only avenue for goats’ cheeses and together with then head cheesemaker Romain Bardou, Hervé decided to throw out tradition and try something different.
Barriquet is made at a higher temperature than a lactic cheese and sets much quicker as a result. Its larger dose of rennet also contributes to a swifter make. The curd is cut and drained in cloths before being put into its moulds by hand. During maturation, the cheeses are washed with a brine solution which brings on the orange pink rind with its umami, savoury flavour and distinctive funk.
Its bright white paste & contrasting ruddy rind are striking, but the flavour is what really sets it apart. The rind has rich, hazelnut qualities while the interior has a smooth, yielding texture with notes of bright lemon acidity, a vegetal artichoke quality & an underlying meatiness.
They are absolutely delicious and will pair beautifully with sweet, sticky, desert wines as well as with lean, mineral whites. Our favourite wine recommendation would be our Ça me.
Fields where the goats graze.